October 26, 2009
How do I frame a concrete brick wall while remodeling an old house?
riflespinner2000 asked:
We are in the process of remodeling an old concrete brick house after a fire and fire hose flood. In order to bring the house up to code we have to rewire a few walls and add power receptacles. We also want to add insulation. Our idea was to put normal 2X4 framed walls in front of the old concrete walls. This way we could wire and insulate the old house. What is the best way to attach the 2×4 wall to the old concrete wall? This also all has to meet code.
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We are in the process of remodeling an old concrete brick house after a fire and fire hose flood. In order to bring the house up to code we have to rewire a few walls and add power receptacles. We also want to add insulation. Our idea was to put normal 2X4 framed walls in front of the old concrete walls. This way we could wire and insulate the old house. What is the best way to attach the 2×4 wall to the old concrete wall? This also all has to meet code.
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Comments on How do I frame a concrete brick wall while remodeling an old house?
If you have a nice cordless drill you can makeover any concrete wall. All you need is a
friend, some concrete screws 2"3/4(Tapcons work well), a concrete drill bit(comes with
the box of screws), and some treated 2×4s.(cedar or pine)…
Here's what you are going to do…
First you will be anchoring your 2×4s to the wall running horizontally. One will be attached near the top and one near the bottom.It is important to make sure your 2×4s are running level along the wall. You can use an
existing mortar line or just use a level and make marks on the wall where you are going
to attach your 2×4s.
1) Drill hole through your 2×4 into base material using the drill bit provided with the
screws. The depth of the hole must be at least 1/4" deeper than the concrete screw
embedment2) Insert point of concrete ***** into hole and drive ***** in using a nut drive or #3 bit
tip. Do not over torque the *****.
3) Fasten three or four screws in each 8' 2×4. This will be plenty.
4) Once you have fastened your 2×4s along the length of the wall you can refer back to step one and continue bracing the 2×4's until you have the wall ready to sheetrock.
Well code is different for different regions. You shouldn't attach the 2×4 wall (known as a furring wall in this case) to the concrete at all. You should actually leave about a 1/2" air space between the furring wall and the concrete wall to prevent any moisture from entering the insulation/wood from the concrete.
As far as fastening, nail through the bottom plate into the floor.
You'll also need a vapour barrier, depending on your local building code, which should be placed on the warm side of the insulation - relevant to your climate. 6 mil polyurethane is the standard material for this.
There is no reason to attach the framed wall to the concrete. You can simply build a wall that runs from the floor to the joists above (you may need to add blocking to catch the top plate if the wall runs parallel to the joists). If the floor is concrete, use a pressure treated bottom plate. Snap a chalk line on the floor where you want the wall. Measure up to the bottom of the joists (or blocking), subtract 3", and cut your studs to this length. When you stand the wall, anchor the bottom along the line, then check the wall for plumb at several points. Nail the top plate to the joists and you are done. Hope this helps.